Sunday, January 29, 2017

Strive for Whole Health Beauty Routines



                                                                                               ...Health and Beauty from the Outside In



    I grew up with a mom I would not describe as “girly” when it came to beauty routines. Most of my childhood and early adulthood I used whatever shampoo and conditioner she bought, which is Suave, by the way. She used an Equate facewash (some of which are pretty decent, but not what she used) and nothing else. She sprayed and blow-dried her hair every day in the same style and had it cut the same way for my entire life. When I was a teenager and wanted to do more with my own routine, I had to learn from my friends. This system did not work well considering all know-it-all teenagers know absolutely nothing and they were also trying to figure it all out.
 Then along came the internet and we all know they can’t put anything on the internet that isn’t true. Basically, a lot of trial and error went into my ever-changing routine. I tried several brands of shampoos and conditioners that dried out my hair or made it too oily. I tried washing every day to not washing at all. I have had more allergic reactions to different face washes than I care to remember.  It all brought me here to share this routine with you. I have finally found where I am happy.  I hope this may help you if you are still searching.
 
Elizabeth


I am incredibly happy with my hair products. After trying everything in Wal-Mart, I branched out to the Pacifica brand. Pacifica is an all-natural, plant based, cruelty free brand that I love. I used their Super Kale Juiced-Up Shampoo and Conditioner for quite a while, loving how soft and strong my hair felt. It felt lighter after I started using these products, no longer bogged down by excess oils and ridiculous chemical extras. Alas, I did not have a store near me that sold these products and buying on line was feeling cumbersome. I am one of those people who seem to think I will never run out of something until one day it is gone so ordering online was a problem for my personality.
        I Needed something closer to home but wanted to stick with all natural, plant based, cruelty free options. I came across the Jessica Alba Botanica collection. Her Hawaiian Coconut shampoo and conditioner set is the best thing I have ever used.  These products have no coloring, do not test on animals, and contain no parabens, Phthalates, Sodium Lauryl/Laureth sulfates, or sodium Myreth sulfates.
        Why am I taking the time to talk down those additives? Well, parabens are synthetic preservatives used to fight yeast, bacteria, or mold in products with a water base. Unfortunately, as they enter the body, in this case through your scalp, they mimic estrogen in your body and create hormone imbalances. Preliminary tests on animals and humans showed it was metabolized quickly and therefore considered “relatively non-toxic.” But when you consider that it is in 75-90 percent of personal care products, the exposure adds up.
         Phthalates are used as a fragrance to give the product that “fresh” scent. Similar to parabens, they have a negative effect on hormones and especially the reproductive system. Too much exposure could have negative effects on expecting mothers and young children. How much is too much? Well, no one has really studied that too much so, sadly, I can’t tell you. 
       As previously mentioned I love the Pacifica brand. A small array of their products can be found at Target or Meijer for a decent price so I am not at a loss for my new face wash. I have incredibly sensitive skin so finding a new wash is akin to trying to touch the sun with my bare cheek. It burns. When a new product isn’t right my skin feels stretched tight and unwilling to move—no amount of moisturizing can fix this. Then a small rash starts to appear just above and to the right of my lip which itches intensely. This situation makes me rather cranky and nothing good ever comes from me being cranky.
      I have found that the Pacifica Sea Foam Face Wash works well with my skin. It is a simple and clean wash that does a great job erasing the day off my face. Unlike many washes I have used in the past, this product is not abrasive to the skin and does not leave any noticeable residue.
      The mated pair to the facewash is the Dreamy Youth Cream. It is quite dreamy, though it can be applied morning or night, or both I suppose if you have incredibly dry skin. Like the other products from Pacifica, this moisturizer is very light and gentle. I love the way I feel after I put it on. My skin is so soft, smooth, and glowing.
        Speaking of moisture, there is nothing more important for your skin. If you never do anything else for it, please moisturize. Most standard lotions have these chemicals I mention that are not the best for your body. Pacifica also has a line of fabulous body butters that make me feel like I am soaking in a scented hot tub in the tropics. (Though come to think of it I have no idea why I am in a hot tub while in the tropics but this is what my brain comes up with when allowed to freely form an analogy. I digress.) They have amazing scents and make your skin deliciously smooth. Best of all, it soaks in quickly enough you don’t feel like a grease ball the rest of the day.
Another great way to moisturize is simply to raid your kitchen. Yeah, you heard me. Grab some olive, coconut, sesame, or whatever kind of oil you use and rub it into your skin. For the most part any oil will do though I am sure some oils might not have the same aroma and prowess as coconut oil, my favorite. This oil is a ‘go to’ for me in the winter when my skin is drier than a corn husk. I apply an even layer before a shower to keep my skin hydrated and resilient to hot showers. At the end of the shower I lather up and most of the oil comes off so, again, I am not a grease ball for hours. As long as you don’t scrub your skin raw, this extra oil with soak in and help you hydrate throughout the day.
Along with these commercial brands, I have a slew of DIY tips that are tried and tested from the land of Pinterest. Believe me; I have tried way too many homemade products so this is a system that works.  (Please don’t be like me and use lemon on your face—acidic—or baking soda in your hair. Baking soda strips all of the natural oils and…everything.) The first and simplest change I made was adding tea tree oil, known for its antibacterial properties, as a spot treatment. In the past, when an unwanted blemish popped up I would quickly douse it with a chemical “zit suppressant”, as I like to call them. Tea tree oil is a much better way. When I am having a breakout I add a drop to my facewash. When I just have one or two trouble spots I rub a tiny drop straight into the skin.
For those of you new to oils, or don’t know how tea tree oil affects your skin, this may not be the best option. Tea tree is a “hot oil” and can be too strong for your skin, especially if you use a really good brand. When starting out it is best to dilute this oil with a carrier oil. For your face I would recommend coconut oil because it is a “clean oil” or, it attracts dirt and skin oils to it so they can be carried away. In fact, many people use coconut oil as a face wash, applying a thin amount to the face and gently wiping it away. Simply take a couple drops of coconut oil and add a drop of tea tree before applying it to your skin. This will either do away with the blemish, if you acted quickly enough, or the coconut oil will act to pull the dirt from the blemish making it form faster so it can go away faster. Antibiotic oils such as Neosporin do much the same thing in a pinch, by the way—just be sure to use a tiny amount or it will spawn more blemishes.
This is not the only way I use tea tree oil. After trying many store bought clay masks I have settled on this homemade one. I use this once or twice a month so as not to stress my skin too much. I mix up enough for a couple of uses and keep it in a sealed jar so this recipe will yield a fair bit. If you are not prepared to store it I would cut it in half at least.
½ cup bentonite clay (found in health food stores and known for its detoxing capabilities)
1 tsp coconut oil
3-4 drops of tea tree oil
Apple cider vinegar to desired consistency. Some like really thick creamy masks while others prefer more watery.
Apply the mask and gently wash it away with warm water when it is dry. Masks work hard to pull contaminates out of your skin and they open your pours to do so. When you are done your face may burn a little (mine does) and be bright red where the mask was. This should subside within an hour. Once your face is no longer red, if it still feels rather dry you may put your normal moisturizer on.
I also regularly mix a hair mask of coconut oil and desired essential oils. This can be done once or twice a week if you want or it can be merely once a month or as needed. It depends on how dry and brittle your hair feels to you. In fact I asked my hair dresser how often she recommended I use the oil and she said it is really hard to overdue. So long as you don’t have excess oily build up in your hair, you are free to use it as you please.
I melt enough coconut oil to spread through my hair and add one to two drops of one or more of these oils, depending on my need.
Tea tree—Sooth dry and itchy scalps, prevents and treats lice.
Cedarwood—growth
Rosemary—growth and strengthen
Lavender—strength, growth, makes hair feel thicker. Also helps to moisturize.
Clary Sage—strengthen
Cypress—helps oily hair. To be used on the shaft and not the scalp
      My final advice for fabulous and healthy skin is an Epsom salt bath. You skin is your largest organ, as most of us know. Your skin absorbs a large portion of what it comes in contact with be it lotion, germs, or vitamins from the sun. Your skin is also the last of the organs to receive nourishment from your diet so anything you can do to help it along its way, is…well, helpful. When you soak in mineral salts your skin brings those minerals into the body. As these minerals are coming in, chemicals leave your skin. It is like a two lane highway. As you soak in the water good minerals glide in and toxins flow out.
      Adding essential oils to this bath is a way to bring in their benefits as well. Some of the most common are lavender for relaxation, rosemary for pain, or eucalyptus for muscle strain. Another great addition is baking soda which will help to draw out toxins and regulate PH levels. Add a bit of melted coconut oil and spread it around the top of the water and it will coat your skin as you slide in to protect your skin from drying.
Of course, my routine is not the end all, be all, of beauty routines. To help me really give you guys some well-rounded advice, I have enlisted a couple fellow strivers to tell us about their routines! I had a fabulous time conducting interviews and writing these up for you, so I hope you enjoy.
Alexa
 
Lush is, in my opinion, a very impressive brand. As many of us know, the ingredients on the labels are listed by amount—whatever is most prevalent in the product is listed first, followed by all of the others in order of how much is in the product. When I read the label for their cleansing cream Ultrabland while Alexa and I were chatting about her beautiful face, I was shocked to see the first three ingredients are almond oil, rose water, and beeswax. This is followed by things like honey, iris extract, and vegetable glycerin. In fact, there are only ten ingredients!  - all if which anyone could pronounce. The synthetic ingredients mentioned are two parabens, by the way. Since the jury is out on the exact effects on the body I would say don’t let that be the only thing that stops you with this product. It is a gem!
This cleanser is a thick cream, the texture brought to you by the honey and beeswax. This combination is very gentle on the skin. The glycerin is not paired with any other chemicals that support lather, which are also questionable for your skin, so it has virtually no drying affect.
Alexa would tell you how amazing this brand is for the asking. She says her skin has never felt softer, and nothing feels better than washing her face with it first thing in the morning. When she showed it to me I spent minutes sitting there and smelling the glorious scent and wanting to swim in the creamy texture.
She pairs this with the Lush Vanishing Cream moisturizer. This product has a larger list of ingredients so I won’t spend too much time there. I will say they are on par with the facial cleanser. Not only do they have lovely, natural ingredients, they tell you what these additions do!  I was really impressed with their website when I read this about the Vanishing Cream Moisturizer, “It contains balancing lavender absolute, pore-tightening witch hazel and grape seed oil to soften. Use it daily for even, clear skin.”
Why was I so impressed with that simple sentence? Because it answered my question just as I was forming it! I, for one, have limited experience with witch hazel so I associate it with hydrogen peroxide. Good stuff, gets shit cleaned, might not want to use it on my face in large quantities. Since reading this I have learned that a large number of people use straight witch hazel on their face daily for exactly this reason. Not only does it have anti-bacterial properties, is gentle on skin, but helps your pores fight off further invaders. Who knew?
Something else that really means a lot to me is that this brand does not test on animals. They are also sure the ingredients they buy are from companies who do not test on animals so you have an all-around cruelty free product. Isn’t that something to feel beautiful about? Furthermore, the containers are made from 100% recycled products. My inner hippie is having a field day with these facts!
Alexa says, “[These products] leave the skin ultra-soft and smooth. The moisturizer is packed with rose water and lavender which help balance my problem skin.”
Alexa also wears makeup, which is something I don’t do so she can give insight into how to keep your skin protected. She uses Nyx’s Tea Tree Elixir as a base and a barrier to protect her skin from foundation. Some makeups have a nasty habit of closing pores or drying skin. Clogged pores can lead to more breakouts which beg you to use more makeup to hide, thus, snowballing the issue. The elixir helps keep Alexa’s pores clear and protects her skin from becoming oily.
Having a thin barrier between skin and makeup not only helps to block some of these affects but stops makeup from settling in to lines and other hard to clean places. Nothing is worse than having makeup wanting to stick around for the really long term.
Though Ultrabland is her morning go-to for its gentle cleansing and restoring properties, she uses something a little more aggressive in the evening to wash her day away. This cleanser contains 2% Salicylic Acid, a compound used by dermatologists. It can treat a host of skin conditions, especially pimples and other blemishes. The smaller amount in this product is due to its being an over the counter, however, when it comes to sensitive skin, less can often be more. Alexa said, “It cleans away all the dirt, oil, and makeup really well.” She wraps that up with Clean and Clear Persa-Gel 10 as a spot treatment for breakouts. This dries up the trouble area quickly without a large amount of skin irritation (as long as the product is used correctly, of course.)
   I am sorry to say Alexa’s gloriously red hair is not natural. Her hair should look like mine but she has jumped the fence to red. In honesty, I don’t complain about it because she looks incredible as a redhead. This all being said, she uses the L'OrĂ©al Ever Pure Color Care system. This is the only color-care shampoo I have seen with no sulfates, which clean well enough, but can be rather harsh on hair and skin. (Please note I have only dyed my hair twice and both were before I read product labels so please forgive me if I am wrong.) This line also does not contain any salts, which could strip the hair of color and moisture. 
 
Anastasia

I have a new fellow striver to introduce! Anastasia is a freshly graduated designer in between Philadelphia and Baltimore. She works primarily in illustration, mixing her knowledge of traditional printmaking and digital graphic design together to create her work. She loves spending time with her younger sister, usually reading, dancing or making traditional Mexican food together.
She is also one of my inspirations (and informants) when it comes to beauty products. I fell in love with Pacifica only because she told me it existed, for one thing. For another, I never really knew much about other ethnicities and their need for different beauty routines. Having talked extensively with her, I have learned how much the industry caters to the average, straight or wavy haired Caucasian. There are so many other skin and hair types that need different attentions and I am hoping having Anastasia’s voice will help my post be less one-sided.
With her dandruff and sensitive scalp concerns, she self describes her hair products as “basic.” She uses Head and Shoulders Clinical Strength shampoo, proving the commercials can’t be entirely wrong because I never knew she had a dandruff problem until I interviewed her for this post. The clinical strength is medicated with 1% selenium sulfide to give dandruff an extra kick out the door. It is antifungal and fights off seborrhea (a common condition causing scaly patches and red, irritated skin.) In short, selenium sulfide does not only mask the symptom (dandruff) but also helps cure the cause.
Having a sensitive scalp makes conditioning your hair a challenge as well. When your skin is prone to dryness, one wants to add a large amount of moisture. The only problem is some moisturizers can be too helpful and create build up on the scalp causing more problems than it is solving as well as weighing down your locks! For Anastasia, the perfect balance is Garnier Whole Blends Repairing Conditioner, Honey Treasures. This product is loaded with not only honey but also royal jelly. Honey is becoming a very popular hair product because of its anti-bacterial properties and because it is packed with nutrients your hair loves to soak up. Honey attracts moisture and delivers it straight into the hair follicles, repairing them.
One thing I was very curious about was Anastasia’s incredible curls. Having the average delicate hair that is never more than wavy I wondered about her thick curls and how this affects how she goes about her routine. How often should you wash and condition your hair? Is it more difficult to spread products around and be sure you have done so evenly?
She replied, “Having curly hair absolutely affects how often I wash and condition. My hair is between 3A and 3B curls, leaning more towards 3B. I can’t shampoo or conditioner my hair every day like people with straight hair. While their hair needs the daily wash, mine needs it every other day or two to three days. If I try to wash my hair every day, I’ll dry out my scalp and cause dandruff, while also stripping my hair of oils that it naturally produces to stay clean and soft, which makes it overproduce oil and then my hair looks and feels worse. On days I don’t shampoo or condition, I at least let water run through my hair and thoroughly comb it out and avoid touching it too much to keep it as clean as possible.
“It isn’t difficult for me to run product through my hair, I just have to be a little more careful than those with straight hair doing so. I don’t rush through it and I make sure I’ve detangled my hair from the ends to the roots first so I distribute it more evenly. My only issue is with brushing. My hair is thicker and there’s a lot of it, so it takes a little extra time to brush. I can’t brush it dry; otherwise I’ll end up like Mia from The Princess Diaries. My best bet is to brush carefully when my hair is wet; brushing hair while wet causes more breakage and fallout.”
Occasionally if she feels her hair needs deep conditioning she uses “The Butters” moisturizer by Jerome Stuart Nichols—an organic, vegan product with nine sumptuous ingredients you could nearly eat. She also tells me this moisturizer can be used anywhere on the body so this is also her go-to body lotion. I have never heard about this product line before and, having been to their website, I can tell you that I need to stay away or I will not be able to pay my bills. (Hint, they have more than just hair products, *squeal*)
Similar to the scalp, her face also has very sensitive skin. For this task she prefers CeraVe SA Renewing Cleanser. It is a fabulous non-comodemgenic product recommended by dermatologists. The best part, in my opinion, about this product is that it exfoliates without the use of grains or beads which irritate the skin. Many products contain plastic non-biodegradable beads which are so small they cannot be filtered out of water, which become pollutants. My personal experience with a rice grain facewash left my skin with a feeling similar to road rash.
Now, if anyone loves a face mask more than me it is Anastasia. In fact, when I asked her this question I simply ate up her answer so I would like to share it with you, unhindered and interpreted by me.
“I love face masks the most, particularly mud and sheet masks. They feel like they do a lot more immediate work. Shea Moisture’s Black Soap mud mask is my favorite, I let it sit on my skin for at least 1-2 hours to pull out the impurities and wash it off with warm water. If I use a sheet mask, I only use Tony Moly products. It’s an eco-friendly, organic, and cruelty-free Korean skincare brand you can buy at Ulta. They have masks with wonderful ingredients like pearls, aloe, and so on. My favorite has been the makgeolli purifying mask and the clear skin rice mask. You don’t have to rinse off your face after you’re done, you take all the serum in the pack and massage it into your skin before moisturizing. It feels so nice and they’re cheap too, so you can have a really nice spa night for yourself on a cheaper budget.”
Ana, you, me, spa night, now! When it comes to spa nights, she also has more insight on Epsom salt baths. My favorite! Her oil mixture sounds incredible sumptuous, containing not only rosemary, lavender oil, and peppermint oil but also cinnamon and eucalyptus. This combination helps with inflammation and sore muscles. It is perfect for after a long day, hard workout, or just to be with yourself and relax.
When I spoke with Anastasia, about her beauty routine I was reminded of one of the cornerstones of health and beauty—water. To quote myself (from Dream With Me post), “Jennifer Aniston told Vogue, ‘Because this is the only body we’re given, we need to be really good and mindful of what we eat and how we take care of our skin—getting a good night’s sleep is extremely important, as is hydrating with water, water, water. It’s so important to getting that extra glow.’”
Now that I have told you all about why your routines suck and ours rock (just kidding) I have some important safely tips. If in reading this you decide a product or a line sounds really good and you want to try it, do not quit your program cold turkey (which is a phrase I never understood, but I digress.) Switching products is very rough on your skin and your body needs time to adjust. For example, when I switched from Pacifica to Jessica Alba, my hair became dry and brittle for a couple of days because it was not used to this new product. To compensate my scalp became extra oily and itchy—I thought I would go insane!
I had a similar experience when I started Pacifica facewashes. I tried the Quinoa wash first and it dried out my skin and gave me a rash. I couldn’t wash my face with anything more than water for a couple of days before I went back to my old wash for a week or two to give my skin time to calm down. Then I tried the sea foam wash and it went much better though my skin did basically ask me what the heck I was doing.
Imagine if I had changed both the hair and the face at once? I shudder to think of what it would have been like with a dry, cracking face and a creasy scalp. Give your body time to adjust to any changes fully, before you make more.
Another note, be super careful and do your homework! I know that it is so hard to love yourself, your body, your face but constantly berating yourself in any way does no one any good (especially your face.) Don’t do a DIY without looking into what the ingredients may do to you. Take it from me, I have had my fair share of “if it is on the internet it must be true” moments. I made my own shampoo with baking soda before I learned—the hard way—that is strips your hair! It took me weeks to be tangle free and moisturized. Lemon may get rid of black heads but that acid doesn’t stop there and it is horrible for your skin. Like I said, learn what is healthy and works for you then stick to it.  
I hope you find happiness and feel beautiful no matter what choice you make with your products. Now, go ahead and have a relaxing Epsom salt bath and have a great day!



A special thank you to Anastasia Longoria and Alexa Vandeventer for letting me interrogate you. I love you both.
The Hostest Life: Living Naturally and True to You by Jessica Alba
Skinny Bitch: Home, Beauty, and Style: The No-Nonsense Guide  to Cutting the Crap Out of Your Life for a Better Body and a Kinder World by Kim Barnouin